Basic Supplies
Easel (I have some here, just check with me if you would like to borrow
one.)
Photo Reference: Bring a good quality 8 x 10
photograph (one preferably taken with one-directional lighting, no flash and
printed on photo paper) to work from.
All students are encouraged to bring images
or originals of their art work for review.
Supplies for Oil Painting
Paint: Artists' Quality paint in the
following colors:
White (I currently use Permalba, but any mixed white will do just fine.)
Yellow Ochre
Ultramarine Blue
Alizarin Crimson (or it's equivalent, i.e. Permanent Alizarin Crimson,
Crimson Lake, Quinacridone Magenta, etc.)
Raw Umber
If you would like to expand your color possibilities you can add:
Cadmium Yellow Light or Pale
Cadmium Red Light
Make sure to get "Artists' Quality" paints. They will last longer and
are easier to work with. Some brands of artist's quality paints are:
Winsor & Newton Artists' Oil Colors
Holbein Artist Oil Colors
Grumbacher Pre-Tested Oil Colors
Blockx Oil Colors
Williamsburg Handmade Oil Colors
Sennelier Artists' Oil Colors
Rembrandt Artists' Oil Colors
Mediums: I often use paint
straight out of the tube. If the paint starts to get tacky, or if I want a
glossier finish with a faster drying time I currently use either linseed
oil, Galkyd or Galkyd Lite. Linseed Oil will extend
the drying time and Galkyd will provide a glossy finish with a fast drying
time. Experiment and see what suits your painting style.
Solvent: Odorless Mineral Spirits
(i.e. Turpenoid, Gamsol, Mona Lisa Odorless, etc.) and a container to store the
stuff in. I like the leak proof stainless steel brush washer best because
the paint settles to the bottom through holes in the bottom of the can liner
leaving the clean mineral spirits in the top and it has a rubber seal so it won’t spill when I travel with it, but any suitable container will work.
Brushes: Bristle brushes, the best
quality you can afford. Any finest quality hog bristle brush or
fine synthetic bristle brush will work well.
My favorites are Grand Prix Bristles or Bristlon synthetics by Silver Brush. One or two very good brushes are better than
several cheap brushes. Good brushes come to a fine edge when they are
wet and don't splay out at the ends. Test them at the store and make sure
they still hold their edge after the sizing is removed. You usually get what
you pay for in brushes so more expensive is usually better. Get at least a size 2 and
4 Filbert. Add a 0 and a 6 , if you can. I also use a 0 and 2
round brush for details.
Supports: Canvas pads, panels or
primed stretched
canvas
Palette, Palette Knife and Palette cups
to hold the mediums
Supplies For Pastel Painting
Pastels:
If you do not already have pastels,
Rembrandt,
Winsor & Newton,
Girault or Holbein
are good brands to start
with. They have a good selection of colors in their 45 to 90 stick portrait
sets. They are relatively hard pastels that make a nice foundation for
subsequent layers of softer pastels.
I use an assortment of Girault and Holbein to start with and then use a variety of softer pastels, including
Sennelier,
Art
Spectrum, Great American Artworks, Unison
and
Schmincke
for the finishing layers.
Supports:
Canson Mi-Tientes
in a cool gray
color is a good, inexpensive paper to start with. It also comes in assorted
colors in a pad. When I use Canson paper I also use a workable fixative. I
have found that Lascaux and Sennelier workable fixatives tend to change the
colors and values less than other brands.
I use
Wallis Museum
sanded paper for
commission work because it can take many layers of pastel without using up
the tooth. It is available in either a Belgian Mist archival professional
paper or a white archival rag museum paper. I do not use fixative with this
paper.
You will either need to mount the paper to a support
or will need a drawing board, Masonite, Gatorboard, matboard or foam core
and painters tape or clips to attach the paper for painting.
Old soft rags and baby wipes are handy for hand wiping.
